What dish to use, and how to set it up for Newbes

[grynner]

what dish to use, and how to set it up for newbes

(should be good information for all-grynner)

c&p,thanks goes to grandpa

This will address the use of "surplus" used oem dishes commonly available supplied by the major providers ie: bev/dish/direct and want to receive sats 110/119 or 82/91.

Back ground: Their are many dishes available on the secondary market, internet auctions ect. That are usable with today’s fta receivers aka: set top boxes (stb's). Most major providers dish - bev - direct use similar dishes and low noise block converters (lnb's) (the item on the dish that has the white hockey puck nose). The dishes job is to reflect and concentrate the satellites signal into the lnb, the lnb's job is to convert and strengthen the satellite signal into a signal that the stb (receiver) can use. One white nosed lnb can pick up one satellite, some lnb's have 2 white noses that can not be separated and can pick up 2 satellites, these are usually specialized for certain providers satellites such as 110/119 for example are called twin lnb’s. Each single white nosed lnb can have one or 2 cable outputs for the stb (receiver) the 2 cable outputs are called "dual lnb's". There are 2 different types of signals sent from the satellite, they are circular and linear. Circular signals can be picked up with an 18-inch or larger dish; linear satellites require a 30-inch or larger dish. 110/119 and 81/92 are circular signals and you must use circular lnb's to receive the signals on the smaller 18/22-inch dishes, we will be using only Circular lnb’s in this installation.

I recommend that "newbes" start with basics, and upgrade as they learn. So we will start with setting a dish up to receive satellite 110. Other satellites such as 82 can be substituted for 110.

Recommended dishes; a single 18 or 22 inch logo dish with one or 2 independant lnb's (if for satellite 81/92 the dish must skew (tilt), thus the dish 500 is recommended) single or dual output lnb. Either a "legacy" or "dish pro" (dp) type can be used.

Dish mounting: required tools: magnetic compass, bubble level, electric drill and bits, wrenches and socket set.

First you must Survey the proposed mounting site to check for obstacles. Use a dish aiming web-site (available on this web-site posts, search for "dish aiming"). Once found enter the required information, the dish aiming calculator will give you the elevation, azimuth and skew of the satellite for your location for the desired satellite (we will use satellite 110). To survey, use the magnetic azimuth from the calculator, stand away from any thing magnetic or metal, turn the compass on till the compasses red pointer points at "n"orth, leave the compass at "n" and look in the direction of the magnetic azimuth found previously and using the "elevation" obtained on the aiming calculator, look up at that approximate angel, there should be no obstructions (yes - trees do count). Look to your left and right at least 45 degrees, if clear this will give you expansion for future satellites. The dish mount must be solidly mounted and absolutely plumb to function correctly. To mount using the original universal bent pole mount. This mount is universal and can be used on a roof or a wall facing the right direction to see the satellite. The key to the mounting is, the dish must be able to see the satellite. The mount must be solid, and most important - plumb in all plains (translated - on all sides of the dish pole, with the bubble level, bubble is between the center lines). The dish must be grounded with a separate ground wire connected from a good ground to the dish mount bracket or pole.

Alternate mounting using a metal pole; some dish installations lend themselves to a straight pole mount. This is a pole that is plumb that is set in cement into the ground. For most 18/22 inch dishes, a standard 1 and 5/8 inch chain link fence post can be used to mount the dish (available at hardware store). With a fence posthole digger, dig a 24-inch deep hole, put fence post in the center, fill with concrete, set the pole plumb with bubble level on all planes, wait 48 hours for cement to cure ground pole and mount dish.

Hookup and aiming
Using rg-6 cable (i suggest using pre-made cables, available in various lengths at radio shack home depot or lowes) hook up to lnb, routing the cable through the dish post and lnb arm to the lnb connection, be sure the connection is snug. Mount the lnb onto the dish arm, put in lnb retaining screw. Mount the dish onto the pole, leaving the dish mount pole locking clamp bolts loose. Load your stb with the latest software. If possible, bring the stb (receiver) with a tv hooked up to it next to you at the dish location, if not get an assistant and yell or use walkie-talkies to commutate. Connect the other end of the rg-6 cable to the satellite in connector on the stb (receiver). Next set the elevation angle on the dish by, loosing the 2 nuts on the elevation adjustment and set it for the angle that was specified in the dish-aiming calculator for satellite 110. Snug up the 2 adjusting bolts. Aim the dish for the magnetic azimuth that you have previously calculated for the 110 satellites. Set up the stb for satellite 110 by going into the “antenna setup” and setting the “satellite for 110, lnb power=”on”, lnb type =”standard” (on less you have a “dish pro” then set lnb type for “ocs-dp” or “dp”), lnb freq = 11250, 22 khz=”off”, tp freq.= 12224, diseqc = none/off, motor =”off”, legacy sw= “none/off”. Save the setup. Set the stb (receiver) to indicate on the tv the signal strength. With the dish sweep the sky in the direction of the magnetic azimuth S-L-O-W-L-Y,
watching the stb signal strength “s” and then the “q”. Peak the reading, the stb should indicate satellite 110, once found using a marking pen mark the pole and dish collar so you can return to that setting. Next loosen the elevation bolts and sweep up and down to peak the signal strength readings. You should have greater than 35 on the “q”uality signal strength and the stb should indicate satellite “110”. Once peaked, tighten the pole and elevation lock nuts to keep the dish from moving. Complete the setup by disconnecting the dish cable from the stb and running the cable to the grounded - grounding block and then another rg-6 cable from the grounding block to the stb. Hook the stb to the tv set and check for signal on 110, of good then scan the satellite, save it and watch tv.

Adding a second satellite lnb for satellite 119 to the single lnb dish: parts needed: an additional lnb, 2ea. 5 ft rg-6 cables w/connectors installed, one diseqc switch, clear bathroom silicone seal, rubber bands.
Take the 2nd lnb and mount it on the right side of the 1st with many rubber bands, standing in front of the dish, with the lnb's back closest to you (you are looking into the dish), the main lnb would be 110 (or 82). Hook the 2nd lnb up to the stb and manually move it up down or twist it - aim it to peak it for the maximum signal for 119, being careful not to move the dish. Then take silicone (bathroom type from hardware store) and bridge the two lnb's together at their seams in about 6 spots, note:I do not put the silicone between them as it make it very difficult to separate them, just along the seams. Mount the diseqc switch to the back of the dish with silicone on the back of the switch and duct tape to hold in place. Give it 2 days and remove the rubber bands and tape. Connect the 119 lnb to diseqc switch port # 1 and 110 lnb to diseqc switch port #2 with the 5 ft cables.

Hook the stb cable to the main diseqc switch connection.
Set up the stb for the added satellite, same as the previous satellite except you must set the diseqc switch settings, (satellite 119= diseqc1, 110= diseqc2). Set the stb to scan the second satellite. Watch tv.

For 82/91 satellites, you must have a dish that skews, (tilts on the dish center axis) such as the dish 500. You skew the dish to the angle in the dish-aiming calculator, prior to installing the lnb for satellite 82.